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Whenever curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. But, nestled prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary triumph.